Navy Linen Blazer

This is another of the linen fabrics I bought in Porto's Amazém dos Linhos. 

It's a lovely shade of navy blue, middle weight Portuguese linen.

I chose a Pattern from BurdaStyle magazine (March 2024). I have a good jacket pattern made to measure, but it has princess seams to the middle shoulder, and I am experimenting with other cuts. This is beautiful, but not perfect. For some fabrics, I would prefer it more fitted, although it is perfect for a linen informal blazer. This pattern has a small bust dart, that could be ugly in other fabrics.

So, for my next formal black blazer, I will be testing another Burda pattern with underbust darts. We'll see, the quest continues. 

The only special issue about the making of this jacket was the no-lining element. I finished all the seams self-encasing them, made a double turned bottom hem and also finished the front facing to be beautiful when seen the inside of the jacket. 

For the next jacket, I will also try to make a smaller size with a FBA, since I want it more fitted. 

Frida Blouse

 This fabric was a present from Ana, my friend's mum. She is a retiring professional home sewist, who wanted to get rid of her small stash. I got some wonderful pieces from her… Some of them have gone to the Primary school where I work. They are lovely for theatre or other performances and presentations. Quite a bunch of them were great for making chick clothes and this is the first one I made. 

This is an old pattern from Burda. I got inspired last Carnaval season, when I thought about becoming Frida Kahlo. Finally, I decided to go as Banksy, but I already had made the blouse by then, so it became known as the Frida blouse. 

Pink Linen Sundress

 

Another great linen fabric from our last trip to Porto. I bought this one in Mundo dos Tecidos, in the city centre. The tone o pink is awesome, and it has the perfect fall for a summer dress. 

I searched throughout my old magazines again, and I found this perfect pattern in a Patrones magazine. 

If I repeat it again, which is fairly possible, I would perform a FBA, thought. I had to give a cm or two in the seams around the bust zone, and that probably produced some looseness in the underarm area. Nothing to be noticed by the untrained eye, but improvable for me. 

All in all, a very comfortable and chic dress, very becoming to the figure. At the end of summer, with a tan, it looks great. 

Purple Jersey Lounge Short Dress

 This is a simple project to wear at home. I bought this organic cotton jersey online from a shop in Barcelona. 

For the pattern, I sued an old tank top pattern and added the gathered and slightly A shaped skirt. 

I made some bias strips into the neck and sleeves bands, and voilà: becoming and comfortable. 

With some time of wear, I must say I prefer printed fabrics for loungewear, since the unavoidable stains from cooking will be invisible in them. That is something to have in mind for future projects. 

Blue Embroidered Gauze Sundress

For some designs, those with some special feature, it is better to use a commercial pattern than making one's own, in my experience. Anyhow, this is the case. I used an old Patrones magazine one! And it proved perfect! Also, it is an excellent match for this fabric, a cotton gauze with English embroidery in a cool faded blue. 

I bought the fabric in a wonderful shop in Porto, Amazém dos Linhos, very well curated, with few fabrics, specially linen and cotton, but all of them gorgeous, made in Portugal and in natural fibres. I loved the shop and I bought several nice fabrics you will see here during the next months. 

I made no adjustments, that I recall (it has been 50 days since I finished it now....). The neck cut is riskée, specially if, like me, you don't like wearing bras, but I think I get away with it, if barely! I love the cut of the skirt, it is perfect for dresses cut under the bust, which I love. 

And as an extra point, I have gone back to using old magazines. Years ago, I stopped using Patrones because I trust Burda better, or my own drafted patterns... but they are very creative and well-designed. When they are also well constructed, they are potential gems. And very cheap too. One of these magazines does not cost more than 5 € and you can get at least a couple of very good patterns. I have some numbers with a lot of excellent patterns, and they are still cool after 20 years. 

Safari Midi Skirt and Black Ribbed Top

After making two pants and reserving fabric for a third pair, I still got some cotton left to make a midi skirt. A priori, it seemed like a perfect match.

I looked through all my magazines for the perfect pattern, and finally I found one in an old Patrones. I hacked the pockets, changing them from jeans to smart pants pockets. 

The fabric was sparse, and I had to use another cotton shirting to make even the pockets facing. There was enough to make the side cargo-style pocket, with some snaps included.

It came up as awesome as I had envisioned, and the fabric was indeed the perfect match for this pattern, I love this skirt, and I am wearing it often. 

The only thing that I do not like is the back yoke. I tried to improve it, but I did not manage to make it gracious. 

Also from some remnant left from another project, I draped this top directly over my dress form, cutting the fabric on it, and sewing it directly after. I added some strips to finish the neck line in front and back, and also for under the arms, where it continued to create the straps. It is absolutely perfect, comfortable and becoming, my size spot on.

My top goes perfect with the safari skirt, and the Guess stilettos I bought in Prague, second hand. 

Workingman Pants x 2

Not all in life is party and glamour! We also have to work, and if we can do it in comfort and style, much better. My husband is a postman, and the company gives them their corporate clothes, but everything is polyester and besides that, he is tall and thin, and therefore, standard size pants do not fit him well. 

For those reasons, I have been making his working pants for some years now, in corduroy for winter, and in cotton for summer. I found this thin cotton twill, with a bit of elastane in it, online, in the UK, and I bought 5 m of it. I have made two in a row now, because he did not have any left (he breaks them all with wear in two or three seasons, so the rotation is high). 

I made the pattern using Aldrich's book, specially for my love's measures, but after 10 years of using it, I lost 1 side and I had to make it again. For the second pair, I decided to use some worn down Dockers which fit him well to make the pattern.

Of the two patterns, my own is nice, but maybe the legs are too wide, and I do not like how the zip turned out. Of the second pair, the Dockers copycat, I think the bottom is too baggy. 

When I make the next pair in winter, I think I'll use my pattern but with slimmer legs.