Sunday, March 31, 2024
Black Organic Interlock Wide Pants
Black Twill Jumpsuit
I bought this wonderful fabric in our last trip to Birmingham, in Guthrie and Ghani's shop. It was a great experience, to take the bus from the centre to the shop's neighbourhood, Moseley and Kings Heath. I bought 2,5 m of this, thinking about some cargo trousers for my man and a smart jacket for me. But then I saw this The Fold Line video about the brand Sezane, and I was infected with the utter need of having a jumpsuit in this twill fabric. Moreover, I had to wear it for our next trip to Barcelona, which was in one week time! And not and ordinary week, but a week with only two days for sewing. Madness. Again. I sew like a madwoman, taking every 15 minutes I could grasp from here and there. I even neglected my studies (I will have to hand in this past week task one week late)... well, I do not like when this happens, but it is one of the few things in my life I lose control and get POSSESSED by the sewing fever!
Anyway, I made it. And I wore it in Barcelona, and it was great, and I got praise in the street even. Was it worth it? NO. Will it happen again? For sure. The only way I can avoid these stressful episodes is to plan my outings ahead and start the projects with time. Because, another of my stupid nonsensical manias is that I cannot have a project finished before time (oh, man, I am ridiculous!). I like to finish just in time to wear it for the first time.
Well, enough. I used this BurdaStyle pattern, with some hackering:
- Longer sleeves and cuffs
- Centre front opening and zip
- I added 1.5 cm in each side in the bust area, because at first fitting it was too tight
- I made a closed shirt neck cut with a shirt collar without a stand.
- I narrowed the legs, 2 cm in each seam (x4)
- I defined this narrowing of the legs to 1 cm less also at the hips (x4)
- I closed the back seam in the bodice, made it on the fold.
- I applied some elastic band in a jersey casing instead of closing the darts in the back.I raised the crotch seam 2cm.

Sunday, March 17, 2024
Cotton Tartan Saraste Shirt
I decided to use again the Saraste shirt pattern from Breaking the Pattern book by Named, as I did in this other checked shirt I made. The only change from that project was to make the sleeves longer, as they ended up being in the short side then.
Everything was going smooth, the fittings were great, until I realized the bust darts were beginning in different places of the checked pattern. At first I thought the problem was the darts, but finally I learnt the sad truth: I had cut the pattern pieces on the folded fabric thinking one of the white lines run over the one in the bottom, but it went 10 cm down, to the next white line. I made this huge mistake when cutting the fabric because I rushed the process, in my rush to get things done. This is one of my sins as a seamstress, sometimes I rush and speed the process, and these are the consequences: the shirt is totally askew, the plaid goes down unbalanced instead of being horizontal. It is a disaster.
When I realized my mistake I considered the possibility of throwing it away, but by then it was almost finished, and my partner said it was unnoticeable to the unknowing eye. So I decided to finish it and wear it. It is nice and comfortable to wear, but I will always know it as the askew shirt.
Errors are an opportunity to learn, and I have learnt to cut the patterns on unfolded fabric, matching the checks carefully in this kind of fabric.
Sunday, February 11, 2024
Non Glamourous Sewing Projects
Sometimes one has to make necessary items that are not that special. Recently, I've been making some of them, like a pair of work trousers for my boyfriend, replicating an old pattern in thick corduroy. Sadly, I lost the back pattern piece, so I had to make a new back pattern by the rub-off method. Either I did not get it properly, or he gained some small weight, but they are too tight and not comfortable, so I will have to make another pair soon.
I also made some sateen silk pillowcases for our bed. They are supposed to be a real game changer for your hair, and they might be. My hair used to become more and more rough and entangled between washes, and now it is soft and loose for days... so they were worth it, even at 70 € the pair, and eventually I will need another pair...
I also made some dress as lounge-wear. I love wearing long jersey dresses at home, and this pattern, an old one I hacked from Burda magazine, is perfect, and it will probably get more renditions.
Sunday, January 28, 2024
Grey Silk Pussy Bow Blouse
I got the fabric 7 years ago in Goldhawk Road, London. It has been all this time in my stash waiting for the right project, and this sure is a perfect match. I needed a thin blouse for my Mitchell trousers and also for under smart jackets, and this is spot on.
Sunday, January 14, 2024
Pink Sweater and Pirate Jeans
I found this pink sweater fabric in Guthrie and Ghani, a fabric shop in Birmingham that we visited last summer. It has a small white thread that gives it a lighter shade, beautiful. The denim, I bought online in Denimlab. It has 2% elastic in it. I used my old Coco pattern for the jumper bodice, and then I hacked the sleeves using Aldrich's book method.
Sunday, January 7, 2024
Tartan Minishorts Suit
I bought this fabric online and it was a disappointment, because it has quite a lot of a sparkle, although cameras do not take it. The sparkle also meant it was not 100% wool (as advertised in the website), so I wrote to them, and they confessed it had 20% plastic in it. They also offered half a refund, so the sin was done, although unintentionally, and the cut fabric was on my stash.
Being that the given situation, I chose to go for it and make some tacky thing for christmas time, where a sparkle might be forgiven.
Well, the pattern of the jacket is from Burdasyle magazine. The construction is fun enough, but I am not a fan of the bust-armscye shaping I got... the jacket is acceptable, but the pattern is not a keeper.
The pants are another matter. I made them before, but I forgot to take the seam allowance off and it made not sense… I am proud of having kept the pattern with some intuition of further use... and then here I discovered I had to take the damn seam allowance off. PERFECTION.
I have always wanted some classic chino-like pants, with pockets. These are perfect, and can be made in slim or wider legs. The book was worth it only for this pattern.
Well, all in all, I don't think I will wear it too often, but the fabric was not what I expected and i think I made the best I could out of it.





























