Blue Wool Trench Coat

 Well, I'm proud of this one, specially because it is my own pattern, and it has turned out sooo nice!

I've been needing a short blue coat for some time, specially to go with jeans or blue trousers. This coat worn by Christina Heindrichs was an inspiration. I found this wool for €15 in the fabric market in Uttrecht, in May last year. 

I searched and searched for a pattern and curiously, I could not find anything similar anywhere. Finally, I decided to draw it myself following Aldrich's directions for the "Fitted Coat (slightly high waist)", which used the tailored jacket block from the same book. 

It was a total success, as it usually is with Aldrich. I changed the neck and rever, though, making them in two pieces: the classic reefer collar for double- breasted coats and a lapel that went from under the collar to a point slightly beyond the end of the button stand. It sounds complicated, but once I traced the jacket block, I just went on drawing all the particularities, like pockets, flare, back belt, etc.

The first fitting was just perfect, it feels like a glove, when you draw a pattern for your own peculiar measures. The only wrong part was the top of the armscye, 2,5 cm too wide, and I could see it right in the drawing of the pattern. Once I removed this, defining it from the middle of the armscye to the top, front and back, the sleeve hanged with the utmost perfection, it was uncanny.

To solve some construction doubts, I went online and I discovered that Claire Shaeffer, expert in haute couture methods, had just published a new book on tailored jackets. I bought the digital version and read it all as I worked on the jacket. It is a wonderful book, instructions and drawings are very well done. I did not follow the complete haute-couture method for this jacket. 

For example, I machine stitched the lining and I sewed it later by hand around the jacket, instead of sewing it to every piece separately. I used fusible interlining instead of horsehair canvas, but I followed other directions precisely, like sewing buttonholes or making the back vent.

Once it is finished and after I've worn it a couple of times, I have decided to topstitch it around the border, specially around the collar and lapel, to keep the layers of wool pressed together. I've seen this kind of thick woo coats with topstitched lapels and collars everywhere, and although I was afraid it was going to spoil the simple and smooth look it had, it has resulted an improvement.

Black Organic Interlock Wide Pants

 I used this pattern from BurdaStyle, and this is my third rendition of it, only this time I made them in all their width. As for modifications, I did not sew the back darts closed, and I used a wide ellastic band inside the waist pieces, to make them well-adjusted. 

They look nice with the top tucked in, and I am deciding if I like that or not. 

Black Twill Jumpsuit

I bought this wonderful fabric in our last trip to Birmingham, in Guthrie and Ghani's shop. It was a great experience, to take the bus from the centre to the shop's neighbourhood, Moseley and Kings Heath. I bought 2,5 m of this, thinking about some cargo trousers for my man and a smart jacket for me. But then I saw this The Fold Line video about the brand Sezane, and I was infected with the utter need of having a jumpsuit in this twill fabric. Moreover, I had to wear it for our next trip to Barcelona, which was in one week time! And not and ordinary week, but a week with only two days for sewing. Madness. Again. I sew like a madwoman, taking every 15 minutes I could grasp from here and there. I even neglected my studies (I will have to hand in this past week task one week late)... well, I do not like when this happens, but it is one of the few things in my life I lose control and get POSSESSED by the sewing fever!

Anyway, I made it. And I wore it in Barcelona, and it was great, and I got praise in the street even. Was it worth it? NO. Will it happen again? For sure. The only way I can avoid these stressful episodes is to plan my outings ahead and start the projects with time. Because, another of my stupid nonsensical manias is that I cannot have a project finished before time (oh, man, I am ridiculous!). I like to finish just in time to wear it for the first time.

Well, enough. I used this BurdaStyle pattern, with some hackering:

• Longer sleeves and cuffs
• Centre front opening and zip
• I added 1.5 cm in each side in the bust area, because at first fitting it was too tight
• I made a closed shirt neck cut with a shirt collar without a stand. 
• I narrowed the legs, 2 cm in each seam (x4)
• I defined this narrowing of the legs to 1 cm less also at the hips (x4)
• I closed the back seam in the bodice, made it on the fold. 
• I applied some elastic band in a jersey casing instead of closing the darts in the back.I raised the crotch seam 2cm.

Well, as you can see, the result is gorgeous. It is not comfortable to go to the toilet, and the sleeves are tight in the driving/writing posture. Other than that, it is awesome, as you can see in the pictures. 

Cotton Tartan Saraste Shirt

 I bought this fabric in the Utrecht textile market, when we visited it almost one year ago. It is a thick, checked cotton, in beautiful red, black and white tones. 

I decided to use again the Saraste shirt pattern from Breaking the Pattern book by Named, as I did in this other checked shirt I made. The only change from that project was to make the sleeves longer, as they ended up being in the short side then. 

Everything was going smooth, the fittings were great, until I realized the bust darts were beginning in different places of the checked pattern. At first I thought the problem was the darts, but finally I learnt the sad truth: I had cut the pattern pieces on the folded fabric thinking one of the white lines run over the one in the bottom, but it went 10 cm down, to the next white line. I made this huge mistake when cutting the fabric because I rushed the process, in my rush  to get things done. This is one of my sins as a seamstress, sometimes I rush and speed the process, and these are the consequences: the shirt is totally askew, the plaid goes down unbalanced instead of being horizontal. It is a disaster. 

When I realized my mistake I considered the possibility of throwing it away, but by then it was almost finished, and my partner said it was unnoticeable to the unknowing eye. So I decided to finish it and wear it. It is nice and comfortable to wear, but I will always know it as the askew shirt.

Errors are an opportunity to learn, and I have learnt to cut the patterns on unfolded fabric, matching the checks carefully in this kind of fabric. 

Non Glamourous Sewing Projects

Sometimes one has to make necessary items that are not that special. Recently, I've been making some of them, like a pair of work trousers for my boyfriend, replicating an old pattern in thick corduroy. Sadly, I lost the back pattern piece, so I had to make a new back pattern by the rub-off method. Either I did not get it properly, or he gained some small weight, but they are too tight and not comfortable, so I will have to make another pair soon. 

I also made some sateen silk pillowcases for our bed. They are supposed to be a real game changer for your hair, and they might be. My hair used to become more and more rough and entangled between washes, and now it is soft and loose for days... so they were worth it, even at 70 € the pair, and eventually I will need another pair...

I also made some dress as lounge-wear. I love wearing long jersey dresses at home, and this pattern, an old one I hacked from Burda magazine, is perfect, and it will probably get more renditions. 

Grey Silk Pussy Bow Blouse

 This is my second rendition of this wonderful pattern. 

I got the fabric 7 years ago in Goldhawk Road, London. It has been all this time in my stash waiting for the right project, and this sure is a perfect match. I needed a thin blouse for my Mitchell trousers and also for under smart jackets, and this is spot on. 

Pink Sweater and Pirate Jeans

 

I found this pink sweater fabric in Guthrie and Ghani, a fabric shop in Birmingham that we visited last summer. It has a small white thread that gives it a lighter shade, beautiful. The denim, I bought online in Denimlab. It has 2% elastic in it. 

I used my old Coco pattern for the jumper bodice, and then I hacked the sleeves using Aldrich's book method. 

For the pants I used an old pattern from BurdaStyle that I love, my Concert Twill Pants, although I had to take 1 cm off the external seams (x4!). Still, they kept falling down when I wore them, so I had to undo some self encased seams and take some 2cm more at the waist piece and the top of the sides seams. 

This is a wonderful pattern, the perfect crotch length, tight at the hips and straight wide from the hip down, I really love this pattern and I will use it again.