Sunday, August 20, 2023

Crotchet Top

Last year, I decided to try my hand at crocheting to know if I liked as much as I like knitting. This pattern is from Katia, it includes some lace and it uses a cotton I love, so it was a good choice, I thought. 

I followed the pattern, first making the back and front pieces and finishing with the lace in the back, the straps, and the scythe's closing. 


I finished in mid winter, so it has been in my wardrobe unworn for half a year, but I was finally able to wear it this summer. When I tried it on I realized my nipples could be seen, and I had to sew and underlying piece at the breasts zone. It is a knit, flesh coloured, invisible underlying, and it does the trick perfectly, as you can see in the pictures: it maintains the sheer vibe of the top, buy my nipples are no longer visible.



Ravelry entry

Emilio Dress


 I bought this gorgeous fabric in Firenze, summer 2022. The seller that helped me took this fabric from out of the counter, as if it were illegal. I marvelled at the stunning silk, and then he pointed at the signature: Emilio (Tucci). Shirts made of this were being sold at 1000 € in fashion district (another instance of how good at marketing Italians are). It cost me 60 €, and it was aprox. 1,5 m. 



It sat in my stash almost a year, until I found the perfect design: a bias cut long dress, inspired in the sateen long dresses of the cinema divas of the classic Hollywood. 



I looked in my magazines for a blouse cut on the bias with that high ruffled neck cut I fancied, and then I lengthened the sides in some evassée shape. 


I cut the dress on the floor, very carefully not to distress the seams, to prevent them from stretching. I was very careful about that along all the process, specially when I stitched it in the machine or when I ironed the seams. In previous attempts to sew bias silk I ruined it in the machine and with the iron, so I was very careful and it did not happen this time, I managed to keep the bias silk in shape.



The result is spectacular. It certainly raised some praise. I am glad that the design and the execution were up to the wonderful fabric. I've worn it twice, at my dear students' graduation party and at my in-laws 50th wedding anniversary celebration.










Tuesday, July 4, 2023

Wide Pants in Green Linen and Black Cobra Corsage Viscose with Black Interlock Wrap Top


Wide pants, adjusted at middle rise waist, with pockets and long to the floor, are a basic in a wardrobe. 

I have been quite a long time trying out several patterns and this one is possibly my favourite. 


It is from BurdaStyle magazine, size 42 with some modifications: I took 1 cm off all sides, exterior and interior, and 2 cm (front and back) off the sides of the waist piece. In addition to that, I will have to add some adjustable strips at the centre back to completely adjust them, because they give some with the wear, and I like a good grip at my waist, but not too much. Besides, waist varies, and some adjustable strips (as in the Mitchell pants) are a nice solution to avoid a belt. I hate belts because you never find the perfect adjustment. 


I applied some fusible interfacing to the pockets' cuts and also to the waist pieces. 


In the green linen version, I installed the zip at the centre back to avoid a bulge at the side, but I did not like the look of it or its accessibility. 


In the viscose version, I installed an invisible zip on the left side, and it is perfectly invisible there, so that is the best option. 


The whole pants have self-encased seams. 


Regarding the fabric, I bought the green linen in Julian Lopez store, in the centre of Zaragoza.  I bought the Lady McElroy Black Cobra Corsage in the online shop The Sewjo. Both are excellent. The linen is more structured and thick, in a lovely tone of green. The viscose is incredibly soft and light, it wrinkles a little when you seat (specially the waist pieces), but it straightens out when you stand up, it is awesome. 

These wide pants are nice to wear with some tight top, but then my tummy gets out, and I do not quite like it. So I decided to make this top with some thick interlock I still had in my stash from Ecological Textiles, which is wonderful. I also used a pattern from BurdaStyle, modifying the front bottom of both pieces, and making it rounder, because it stood out too much. It is very wearable and comfortable, a very good compromise between tight/wide, long/short. 










Saturday, June 3, 2023

Pink Moschino Cotton Outfit


 This fabric has quite a story to me. When I first saw it in The Sewjo website I thought it would be awesome for an ensemble a la Chanel. It was a Moschino cotton and elastane at a very good price. 



When it arrived, and I saw it live I was completely disappointed, it feels too elasticated and thick... Then I had an envent and I decided it was worth a try. 

I found this pattern in an old Patrones magazine, and afterwards I remembered this was my second rendition of it,

the first one being for my sister in law, back in 2012. I do not like the patterns in the magazine, but Burda did not have anything similar, so I went for it, both the dress and the jacket. 


I had to modify the dress, but only slightly, taking some ease off over and under the bust, and then giving some A shape to the skirt. 


At the second fitting I realized it was awesome, the fabric looked amazing and the pattern was like a glove to my body, I could not be happier. It was very nice to sew and it was gorgeous till the end, no surprises. 



The jacket is a different matter, pieces did not properly match, shoulder seams were too long, sleeves did not make any sense... tried to adjust it as best as I could, and it ended up just good enough. 



 It went to confirm my bad opinion on Patrones magazine patters, they are a disaster, specially sleeves. If I had had any fabric or time, I would have redone it completely in a Burda pattern. 


But all in all, it is a stunning outfit, and I felt like a princess wearing it. 












Sunday, May 21, 2023

Trip to Utrecht

 Some weeks ago, on May the 1st weekend, we travelled to The Netherlands for a music festival in Hengelo. We decided to travel light, so we only carried one handbag under the seat each. But our bags are smaller than the measures allowed, so I decided to use the oilskin I bought in Merchant & Mills to make two bags of the maximum measures allowed. I bought some cotton to line them and some straps and zippers for inside pockets:


After spending the night in Amsterdam, we travelled to Utrecht to visit the famous fabric market there. It was very a pleasant street full of stalls of fabric, and the prices were quite good. The quality of the fabric was not very high end, but after inspecting all the stalls twice, I managed to find some gems. There was a stall with lovely silks, another with some lovely cotton tartans and another one with nice wools. Well, here is my bounty: 

Sunday, May 14, 2023

Black Gingear Jeans

 This is my second attempt at the Ginger Jeans, and I am glad to report these are pretty pretty close to perfection. 

Fabric is perfect, to start with. A black 2% stretch cotton denim, 13,5 oz weight, from Denim Lab. The perfect amount of stretch, the perfect thickness, the perfect shade of black. AWESOME. 


I decided to use again the Middle Rise Ginger Jeans  pattern. I love its seat in the low waist, just under the belly button, and also just the minimum ease all around to be slim and comfy in a 2% stretch fabric. 


Being this fabric narrow, your need the double length to pull a pair of jeans. But then I got all confused when cutting it upside down and turned over to prevent it from spinning, and it does spin around my left leg, all the way to the back. being dark black, nobody notices but me, and it is not uncomfortable, so still a success. But I cannot say they are perfect. 


Pretty cool, though!








Saturday, May 13, 2023

Grey Camouflage Cavally Wool Biker Jacket



There is this online shop in Madrid that curates awesome fabrics. They bring some designer remains at very good price. 


This wonderful pure wool is from Cavalli. It is so beautiful I had to buy it and make a jacket I did not need, just to honour such a gorgeous fabric. 


I thought a biker jacket would look great in this fabric, so I searched Burdastyle database, and I found the perfect pattern. I ordered the past number in my local library-bus, and I had a fantastic pattern for free.

The only modification needed was the total length, to which I added about 5 cm.

I bought some awesome zippers in the fabulous haberdashery Santa Anna, in Barcelona. I interlined it with fusible cotton and installed a beautiful grey cupro lining.  

It is awesome, perfect, comfortable, warm and a luxury to wear.