Blue Wool Trench Coat

 Well, I'm proud of this one, specially because it is my own pattern, and it has turned out sooo nice!

I've been needing a short blue coat for some time, specially to go with jeans or blue trousers. This coat worn by Christina Heindrichs was an inspiration. I found this wool for €15 in the fabric market in Uttrecht, in May last year. 

I searched and searched for a pattern and curiously, I could not find anything similar anywhere. Finally, I decided to draw it myself following Aldrich's directions for the "Fitted Coat (slightly high waist)", which used the tailored jacket block from the same book. 

It was a total success, as it usually is with Aldrich. I changed the neck and rever, though, making them in two pieces: the classic reefer collar for double- breasted coats and a lapel that went from under the collar to a point slightly beyond the end of the button stand. It sounds complicated, but once I traced the jacket block, I just went on drawing all the particularities, like pockets, flare, back belt, etc.

The first fitting was just perfect, it feels like a glove, when you draw a pattern for your own peculiar measures. The only wrong part was the top of the armscye, 2,5 cm too wide, and I could see it right in the drawing of the pattern. Once I removed this, defining it from the middle of the armscye to the top, front and back, the sleeve hanged with the utmost perfection, it was uncanny.

To solve some construction doubts, I went online and I discovered that Claire Shaeffer, expert in haute couture methods, had just published a new book on tailored jackets. I bought the digital version and read it all as I worked on the jacket. It is a wonderful book, instructions and drawings are very well done. I did not follow the complete haute-couture method for this jacket. 

For example, I machine stitched the lining and I sewed it later by hand around the jacket, instead of sewing it to every piece separately. I used fusible interlining instead of horsehair canvas, but I followed other directions precisely, like sewing buttonholes or making the back vent.

Once it is finished and after I've worn it a couple of times, I have decided to topstitch it around the border, specially around the collar and lapel, to keep the layers of wool pressed together. I've seen this kind of thick woo coats with topstitched lapels and collars everywhere, and although I was afraid it was going to spoil the simple and smooth look it had, it has resulted an improvement.