Jersey Dress in the Mountains

Today we traveled to Ainsa, in the Pirinees. The weather was cloudy, and I decided to wear this jersey dress I made a couple of years ago with my "Universal T-shirt" pattern. In this case I combined the printed cotton with some black for the sleeves and neck. It is a good solution for printed fabrics which could be too much on their own.

This particular dress combines very well with short leggins. I am quite proud of this neckline too. Ii is sewn separately, and then attached to the dress and machine stiched in place.
I decided to post it, even if it is an old design, because the pictures in Ainsa are so beautiful and because it is been a while since a posted something. The are two reasons for that. One, I was making these dresses to my twin nieces, and I haven't got any picture yet. This last week, I was also sewing for my students, but I will show you eventually.
Hope you like the dress!

Jersey Wrap Dress

I had persued this design for a long time, trying to get a similar pattern modifying similar ones, but last year I finally saw this VOGUE in the net and I bought it.
I bought the material because the print was as nice as the touch of the fabric, very good fall, lots of give, soft... but it did not occur to me what to do with it.
I took a while to do the match, having them -the pattern and the fabric- both at home in the same shelf, until one day inspiration arrived and I was so happy with the idea!

The result has been nice, very nice. The skirt, really wide at the bottom, in a bell shape, falls graciously around my legs. Also, and most important, I have learned a lot in the process! The most important of my new discoveries (you never stop learning!) is that American patterns, which are sold individually (I discovered this only last year!) include the seam allowances! Pitty that i discovered this after having finished my dress, which, now I see, is maybe too generous at the superior front. Of course I realised that in the first fitting, but I wanted to play safe, and be sure the two sides would not open easily when wearing it.

I really prefer our system here, in which the pattern is the pattern, and you add to it the seam allowances you consider safe. For example, in a new design, you better leave big allowances in certain parts until the first fitting, but in designs you know well and store (like a toile), allowances can be minimum. So I think it is more accurate if the pattern is without the seam allowances, which you add when cutting the material arround it. Anyway, good to know, and something to have into consideration. Before cutting a pattern, check if the seams allowances are included.
Apart form that, the pattern was accurate and really flattering, so I put VOGUE in my list of trustable patterns.

Pink Polar Fleeze Jacket: a Step By Step Process

Since I've been reading blogs by sewing enthusiasts from all over the world, I have realized the process I follow to make a piece is not the same everywhere. In this post, I will explain what is this process step by step.
 I collect pattern magazines, sold in kiosks. Nowadays in Catalonia, we can buy Burda, from Germany, and Patrones, Spanish. They publish a new number every other month, but I try to have a look first before deciding if it is worth it, since most of the times (specially in last years, or maybe because I already have a big collection of patterns) it is not worth it -it is not a matter of price, they are only around 4 euros, but the space in my shelves!

Once I've chosen a design from the magazine, I decide what size is going to fit me, having into account the magazine style. Burda, for example makes its patterns much bigger than Patrones. Both magazines have a chart with measures. One has also to consider the kind of piece you are working with, and the fabric used before deciding a size. And often, I have to make it smaller or bigger, as in the folloing example.

Once the item and the size are chosen, I proceed to calc the pattern from the big sheets of paper where all the patterns are drawn. Knowing the colour and number dessigning your piece, I follow with a pencill over the lines, reproducing it in pattern paper.

When I have copied all the pieces, I cut them off and proceed to place them on the material, respecting the grain direction, and all the directions the magazine gives us. Once all the pieces are placed and hold with headpins, I proceed to cut the fabric, leaving good seam allowances, for possible variations.

The following step is markig the pattern into the material. I usually do it with taylor tucks, a sittch done with basting cotton thread, similar to basting, but with big loops of thread. After marking every sign, mark, or line, I take the paper off and proceed to separate the two pieces of cloth, cutting the thread between them, which stays attached to both of them.

Now, all the pieces ara thus marked before assembling them. It's time to baste the basic pieces together to the first fitting. In this particular case, the first fitting proves the jacket needed major adjustments. I had to add a seam at the center back, because it was toooo wide. I also entered it at the sides seams, and gave some shape towards the waist. I also made the sleeves narrower that they were in the original pattern. In the second fitting I regained some hope. I regret now not having photographed the fustration-happy-ending process, but of course at the time I just thought in the high possibilities of total failure. Bunt, alas... no!

I decided to apply fusible backing to the neck and arount the pockets, which I also changed form the original. They were to be sawn on top, and I made some inside pockets instead.

The result is great, I think. So, happy ending. It is also very confy, nice to the touch, lightweight and very warm.

Good!

Chanel Summer Dress

Well, this is not me. A friend of mine asked if I could make her a dress for a big familly party. I was to choose the fabric (a Chanellike tweed fabric combining coral red and bone cotton) and the design.

The pattern was from Patrones magazine. In the first fitting I was happy to see that no changes were necessary. My friend has a perfectly balanced body that filled the dress to perfection.

I finished its hems with the lining, avoiding same-material facings that would have made it too thick. Thus, I stiched the lining right sides together at the neckline, trimmed the allowances and turned it inwards. I finished the armsythes by handsewing them to the fusible interfacing, and then completed sewing the lining to them also by hand, 3 mm form the rolled hem. I also saw the lining to the zipper in the back.

I followed all my new tricks learned from Shaeffer's couture techniques book, and I can easily see the good results they are giving. The final result was this masterpiece:

Blue Checked Cotton Shirt

I got this double sized blue tartan fabric in telas. It is 100% cotton and so sweet to my skin. The pattern is from my favourite pattern magazine of all time:

(I don't even know how many pieces I have got out of this single magazine)

...and fits me like a glove. I didn't have to touch it an inch.

I still got some fabric left, which I keep for a short-sleeved blouse, also out of the same magazine!

Curtain

I've done a new curtain for my sewing nest.

I was quite lost trying to choose the pattern, or the material I wanted whatsoever . So it was K who took the decision: striped. I think it was a good choice, it is lively (rather than elegant and boring). Here:

Green Wool Skirt

I bought this fabulous green wool (100%) in a beautiful fabric store in my hometown, Lleida.

I was doing several tests regarding the inferior part, gathering it and pleating in many different ways. Finally I realized the fabric was so thick that nothing like that was becoming, so I simply cut it in widening lateral lines. The skirt is quite nice comined with black, and really very warm.

My sewing is clearly benefiting from C. B. Shaeffer's book, in many aspects, interfacing, lining, properly applying hooks, finishing the seams and hems... I am really happy with my learning.

For this skirt, I made the pattern all by myself (also proud:-).