Saturday, June 30, 2018

Organic Sweatshirt Jacket For Men + Zip Pocket Tutorial

 This is a jacket for my love.
I used a BurdaStyle pattern, which again was perfect, I did not have to alter a thing. Again, Burda delivers. Yes, the instructions of the magazine are so schematic, one has to be an expert sewist to be able to follow... but the accuracy of the pattern and the good fitting one usually gets are the best.
I bought the fabric online in Ecological Textiles. Wonderful fabric to work with and even better to wear. Very warm and comfy, but also breathable, perfect for a sporty jacket with zips and all. In fact, I decided to make it after I wore my own a couple of times. This was the masculine version in the same magazine. So, it is a very similar pattern, i the same fabric.
The most interesting feature during construction was the front and back facing, which I made following the instructions. And also the pockets, which I made my way:

I cut the two pieces of the pocket bag together, and 5 cm longer for the pocket facing included.

I marked the placing of the pocket in both sides and applied some fusible interlining.
I placed the pocket bag on top of the the jacket front (right sides together) and fixed it with pins.

I stitched a rectangle 1 cm wide and 15 cm long, with small stitches at the corners.

Then, we proceed to cut the pocket with a long straight line and four small diagonal ones at corners.
We turn the bag toward the inside of the jacket, baste the opening and press.

Put the zip underneath, secure with pins and machine stitch it with the zip foot, all around.

In the inside, fold the two halves of the pocket together and zigzag it all around with the walking foot on.

Finish sewing by hand the part above the zip, catching it too.
Secure it to the jacket facing if you like, or leave it flapping around.

Saturday, June 2, 2018

Blue Liberty Blouse

Sometimes I have a certain dessign in mind and I cannot find a pattern that delivers for the life of me. As it was the case with this pattern.
The inspiration came, again, through one of the serials I follow, The Affair:
Resultat d'imatges de the affair

 When I saw Allison, a character always inspiring in her casual dresses and blouses, I though it was a perfect excuse for  buying some liberty fabric. I bought it at Goldhawk Rd, in a shop where they have some pretty Liberty cotton lawns some pound cheaper. Perfect.

I envisioned a classic shirt with breast side darts and waist shaping. I scanned all my magazines and could not find such a pattern. So, I had to make my own. I used the close fitting bodice as a base, moved the breast dart, added waist shaping at the sides and darts in front and back. I added the buttonstand, constructed a shirt collar with separate stand and adapted the basic sleeve block, adding an opening, narrowing it at the bottom, shortening it to include a cuff. I followed Aldrich's book to make this customed pattern.

That last step was an important mistake. Although I trued all the paper patterns over the dressform and they seemed OK, I never checked the length of the sleeves, and that was fatal, because I realized the sleeves were 10cm short when I tried on the blouse in first fitting. Luckily, Liberty patterning allows for any tricks, and makes them invisible... I had to add a 10 cm rectangle at the bottom of sleeves, and the result ins inconspicuous.

Blunders aside, the result is wonderful. Comfortable, pretty, wearable and practical. I expect to wear it a lot, specially for work. I future renditions of this pattern, I will make sure the sleeves are long enough and maybe not so ruffled at the top.

Sunday, May 27, 2018

Black Cotton Sateen Office Dress

This is my second version of this Burda Style pattern. The first one in wool is nice, but I wanted another version in a fabric that can actually be pressed properly!
I bought this fabric in Goldhawk Rd., London.
This was a fast make, since no adjustments were necessary, and lining neither. 
Long invisible zip at the back and some pretty original seam placing. 
This cotton wrinkles like a MF, these pictures were taken after one morning of working as a primary school teacher, my job. Nothing I cannot stand, but quite a lot of wrinkles...

Perfect for this time of the year.


Friday, May 18, 2018

Irregular Stripped Knitted Pullover

 Last winter I bought this sorted colours merino wool yarn in my nearest town, Lleida, at the Katia store. Unfortunately, they were closing it for good, and there was a 50% sale. They did not have 10 skeins of any colour, so I bought 2 deep red, 2 dusk pink, 2 green, 3 off white and 3 dark blue. I had seen an irregular stripped pullover in some add in the web, and I though it would be fun to reproduce it with different colours. 

Last january, when it was time to start the project, I could not find the add for the life of me, so I had to invent it! The only part I remebered was the white-blue even stripes at the top, so for the rest, I was changing colours whenever I felt  like it. That irregularity was much fun, everytime I changed colour I was happy and so the project went on very fast, hehe...

I followed the pattern of my other stripped merino wool pullover, (which I created following the grids in Ann Budd's The knitter Handy Book of Sweater Patterns) because I think it was perfect. I knitted on the round with cabled needles, a method I totaaaaaally love, becasue we do not have to purl, and becasue you get a seamless sweater at the end, which is perfect. 

For the sleeves, I reproduced the same stripes pattern, and then united it all to knit the yoke on the round. 
 When I finished knitting, I spent some time knotting and concealing the tails of all the colour changing, but thosw knots were only in one torno side and inside sleeves. 
I must confess I hate blocking sweaters. I do it, and it came out good, but it is a very scary moment when you take your 5-month-work out of the water totally mishaped. I am a new knitter, and I have never washed any of my sweaters yet, but I am quite scared of what will happen when a put them under water again.

I totally and absoultely love this pattern, and I think Ann Budd's book is a MUST for any knitter.
Here my Ravelry entry.

Wednesday, May 9, 2018

Black and Pink Organic Sweatshirt Cotton Robe

I am SO happy with my new robe! It's gorgeous!
This is a Burda Style pattern I have already used twice. It is perfect for jersey fabrics.

I bought this organic sweatshirt cotton at Ecological Textiles (amazing quality), and used some remains of pink organic sweatshirt left from my tracksuit, to give it some colour.
The result is gorgeous, soft to the skin and very warm.

Sunday, April 29, 2018

Organic Cotton Stripped Jersey Top

It seems I was making a lot of organic jersey basics this winter final weeks! Probably the reason why is that they are much needed in my wardrobe, and much worn.

No big news about this one neither... My own pattern version of the Coco top, and a nice organic stropped cotton from The Village Haberdashery. 

Candy for my skin.

Saturday, April 14, 2018

Organic Grey Ribbed Cotton Turtle Neck

Some projects are spectacular and glamorous, and some are practical and wearable, like this one. 

Another gorgeous fabric bought at Ecological Textiles, and another rendition of my "Universal T-shirt" pattern. This time, I took 1cm off all seams, and added a wide round band for the turtle neck. 
The result is perfect. I am embracing cotton for winter lately... I try to use only natural fibers, and for winter, we have wool or cotton. But wool is often itchy or too warm for interiors, whereas cotton can be really warm if it is woven in a dense manner, like in ribbed cotton, sweatshirt or thick interlock. They are warm but breathable and really sweet to the skin. 
And if it is colder, we can add layers!