Monday, March 23, 2020

Black Organic Cotton Interlock Joni Dress

I am so in love with my first velvet version of the TATB Joni dress that I decided I needed another one for concerts. I bought this wonderful organic interlock fabric from RayStitch and proceeded to make a second version.

Once finished, the sad and scary situation we are in with this terrible pandemic, impeded me from wearing it anywhere. I love taking pictures of my makes the day I am wearing them for the first time, but I had to make a sad exception here because I finished it the very first days of quarantine. So, I took these photos, and hang the dress in my wardrobe hoping I will be able to wear some day soon.




Sunday, March 1, 2020

Black Organick Cotton Pyjamas

I discovered this gorgeous organic jersey in Ray Stitch in my last trip to London and after using it to make panties (the only ones I am wearing nowadays), I had to buy some more online to make some comfortable homewear. 
This is one more rendition of my Universal T-Shirt pattern, with some lace added to the bottom. Simple as that. I love this pattern with raglan sleeves, which comes originally from a Patrones magazine pattern. I can make it tighter or looser, giving or taking ease all around. It's similar to the Frankie T-shirt pattern in TATB's Stretch book, which I wanted to test, but then I thought, why change what is already perfect, right?
The bottoms are a second rendition of a rub-off copy of my friend's shorts. I saw her wearing them one day and then I asked her if i could borrow them a couple of days to copy them. They are absolutey perfect, so this is another pattern I might come back to from time to time. 
I plan to pack this when I travel as a pyjamas or something to put on when I am lying around home. I do not wear anything when I sleep at home, but one has to be more "decent" when sleeping in AirB&Bs, hotels, other people's houses, or even my car.
So, there. Pyjamas. Are they not cute??






Sunday, February 9, 2020

Organic Sweatshirt Stella Hoodie Dress

 Kind of a disappointment, this one, to be honest. I had, as usual, the highest expectatives, but at the end, it turned out a not flattering piece of clothing, probably because the fabric, a C. Pauli organic sweatshirt that had proved likewise in a previous project (does one ever learn from mistakes?). Being it gorgeous on the table, it lacks hang, or weight, if you know what I mean, for a project like this. Maybe the pattern was not the best choice, not for the fabric (it is a perfect match, I think), but for my figure. I know from experience that dresses that hang down from my big boobs make me fat, excuse my language. 


Those designs that get closer to the waist by means of darts, or cut pieces, or whatever method, tend to swuit me better than those that hang loose from my boobs, for obvious reasons. 


Having said that, let me comment on the pattern, which seemed a wonderful idea by Tilly and the Buttons, published in her book Stretch, which is great and really worth it if you like sewing with jersey and knits. This is a variation of a shorter and sleeved jumper, and my second project from the book. The first was so amazing, my expectations were rocket high. 

The sizing is spot on, the instructions wonderful (although I take the seam allowances off patterns, mark them with tailor tucks into the fabric, baste them and fit them before I machine-stitch anything.

Well, we will see how often I wear this. It is comfortable for work, and it has got the righ amount of warm without being too much, so it might be successfull. We will see!






Monday, February 3, 2020

Jean-Ius

Jeans may be the last frontier in home sewing. It is difficult to find a good fabric, with the right weight, thickness, stretch (2% is perfect for me) and colour (dark blue or total black). It is also difficult to find a good pattern, but in that department, I learnt time ago the best approach is to make my own pattern. First I drew one based on Aldrich's book. Then, I modified it to be more fitted, by comparing it to a pair of almost perfect Levi's I had. The problem was that those Levi's had a tendency to fall down on me, and I have to wear them with a belt. Of course the copy has the same problem, haha... they are almost perfect in the same way. 
So I wanted to try to copy another old Mango pair I have, and I needed them in black, because I did not have any black jeans. 
I bought this fabric in Ray Stitch during my last trip to London. It is very very nice, very dark black with a perfect 2% stretch, running in the think side, but still a good weight for jeans. 
I had seen this online course, Jean-Ius, by Kenneth D. King in Craftsy a long time ago, so I decided to try it using the 1 week test subscription, during my christmas brake. 
I loved the course. 
The method King has developed is almost flawless, exhaustive to perfection and really thorough in every detail. So I learnt a lot, both in the general approach, and in the finishing details. 
You start by marking your favourite jeans with thread, and then copying them into a silk organza, and making a paper pattern from that. 
Then you must finish the paper pattern, and make all the details, like pockets, facings, etc.
I skipped the toile. I do not believe in toiles, because they are not made in the same fabric. For example, in this case, it would have stretch, so what is the point?
Then you cut the fabric (I did not include seam allowances, and leave some generous ones in risky places, as I always do. That means I have to mark the fabric with tailor marks, which is like 1 hour of work, but so worth! and it compensates for not making a toile) and start constructing and assembling. 
King gives a lot of good advice and tricks, with the machine, the iron, the scissors, it's amazinng. 
The final result is ALMOST perfect! Yes, I got another tiny almost. My old Mango jeans have more stretch, and then the crotch, which is cut into the bias, is not longer, but, you can pull it higher. I compensated it by sewing the waist band 1 cm higher, although that means the pockets are too deep, and they are still very low cut. 
Wearing them is very nice. They are comfortable and flattering. I have now doubts if this is the correct crotch length, or If I would prefer them to be 1 or 2 cm, higher. I have enlarged my pattern 2cm just in case. 
In terms of fabric, it is very very nice. Knees or bottom are not marked after a day sitting around in my job, they keep their shape and are very comfortable. 
I totally recommend this course, even when I'd change some things, specially at the final assembly. 








Sunday, January 19, 2020

Panties!


I have been testing this pattern, the Acacia Underpants (which on top of its perfection, it is FREE!), for some time now... I think this is the fourth trial, and I can finally say they are perfect now. 
The trial and error has to do with sizing. Following the size chart resulted in some small knickers at the beginning, with some big elastic bands! Then I went two sizes up and it was too big. Finally, a medium size, for this fabric, is perfect. 
With such close to the skin, tight piece, one has to be accurate and precise. Not all the fabrics have the same stretch, and it happens the same with elastic bands. 
I have used a gorgeous black organic cotton from Ray Stitch. Since it is a small rib knit, it has some give in it without any plastic, which is great. They have it also in white. 
Now I am waiting for somebody to make some organic elastic band 5mm wide. Please!
I love them. I can't stop wearing even the smaller and bigger samples, so with these perfectly sized ones, my skin and mucosae are going to be very happy.

Sunday, January 12, 2020

Long Wool Skirt n the Bias


 I have been planning for a second long bias skirt since I made the 1st one in a wool polyester blend (some time ago, I was not so picky with fabrics, to my regret now). 
In my last trip to fabric (and music concerts going) shopping in London, I found this gorgeous Lady McElroy wool chenille in The Village Haberdashery at about 14 Euros the metre. Pure wool in black and white, with a speck of pink. It cannot be more gorgeous. I was doing some calculation in the shop and finally I got 2 metres, which became the right amount for a long bias skirt like this.
The pattern is mine, I drafted it using Aldrich's book, and I have used it for shorter versions quite a number of times. The waist darts of the fabric are eliminated and substituted by flare from top to bottom. The fact that it is bias cut, adds movement, drape and hang to the fabric. 

I lined it with a good rayon, put an invisible zipper on one side and a waist band to be worn in my high waist. 


The idea of the outfit, with the white blouse, came watching Divorce. S.J. Parker is often an inspiration, (notwithstanding the impossible high heels she wears all the time) and she is wearing a similar skirt with a white blouse that I found perfect. 
Not to brag, but my blouse (a perfect Burda pattern wit a bow in front, princess seams and 3/4 sleeves) is even better.
It is a dream of a skirt. It looks gorgeous with white, and also with a black top. With a wool channel jacket or with a black leather biker. With chunky high heels, like in this pictures, but also with combat boots.
Wearing it, I feel like a queen, with the skirt moving from side to side when I walk. Plus, it is very comfortable and warm.
A jewel in my wardrobe. 

Saturday, January 4, 2020

Nani Iro Pussy Bow Blouse and Long Blue Corduroy Ruffled Skirt

These two pieces go well together, so they've become a tandem.
First, I used this wonderful Japanese cotton to make Sew Ove it's Pussy Bow Blouse, and its become the perfect blouse pattern in the perfect fabric. It is soft, with the perfect drape, comfortable and gorgeous. Also expensive, considering it's only 1 m wide.
The Pussy Bow Blouse is a fantastic pattern. It does not have any bust or waist darts, so it is a rectangle with bust circumference. Being rather big breasted, these kind of patterns hanging from my big boobs tend to render me fat, but in this case, I love it! The key element in the deep V-neck cut, surrounded with a bow that can be done or hang loose. That detail makes it the sassy librarian blouse style, adorable. 

Sleeves are also beautifully cut, their caps are perfect and their cuffs too. And it is simply gorgeous in this fabric. My students told me it seemed Chinese, and they were close enough, so the Japanese style of the print, with small white and silver painted over a shady blue making it seem hand painted.

Regarding the skirt, it is totally my creation. I had this corduroy that resulted too thin for a pair of trousers, and finally I came with this idea of a long skirt with a ruffle at the bottom. It's comfortable, warm, and looks nice with combat boots. Maybe it is strange for people, someone told me I seemed out of a fairy tale... and I don't know if that is good or bad. But I like it, so the rest, I do not care!