Sunday, March 31, 2024

Black Organic Interlock Wide Pants


 I used this pattern from BurdaStyle, and this is my third rendition of it, only this time I made them in all their width. As for modifications, I did not sew the back darts closed, and I used a wide ellastic band inside the waist pieces, to make them well-adjusted. 



They look nice with the top tucked in, and I am deciding if I like that or not. 





Black Twill Jumpsuit


I bought this wonderful fabric in our last trip to Birmingham, in Guthrie and Ghani's shop. It was a great experience, to take the bus from the centre to the shop's neighbourhood, Moseley and Kings Heath. I bought 2,5 m of this, thinking about some cargo trousers for my man and a smart jacket for me. But then I saw this The Fold Line video about the brand Sezane, and I was infected with the utter need of having a jumpsuit in this twill fabric. Moreover, I had to wear it for our next trip to Barcelona, which was in one week time! And not and ordinary week, but a week with only two days for sewing. Madness. Again. I sew like a madwoman, taking every 15 minutes I could grasp from here and there. I even neglected my studies (I will have to hand in this past week task one week late)... well, I do not like when this happens, but it is one of the few things in my life I lose control and get POSSESSED by the sewing fever!


Anyway, I made it. And I wore it in Barcelona, and it was great, and I got praise in the street even. Was it worth it? NO. Will it happen again? For sure. The only way I can avoid these stressful episodes is to plan my outings ahead and start the projects with time. Because, another of my stupid nonsensical manias is that I cannot have a project finished before time (oh, man, I am ridiculous!). I like to finish just in time to wear it for the first time.


Well, enough. I used this BurdaStyle pattern, with some hackering:

  • Longer sleeves and cuffs
  • Centre front opening and zip
  • I added 1.5 cm in each side in the bust area, because at first fitting it was too tight
  • I made a closed shirt neck cut with a shirt collar without a stand. 
  • I narrowed the legs, 2 cm in each seam (x4)
  • I defined this narrowing of the legs to 1 cm less also at the hips (x4)
  • I closed the back seam in the bodice, made it on the fold. 
  • I applied some elastic band in a jersey casing instead of closing the darts in the back.I raised the crotch seam 2cm.

Well, as you can see, the result is gorgeous. It is not comfortable to go to the toilet, and the sleeves are tight in the driving/writing posture. Other than that, it is awesome, as you can see in the pictures. 



Sunday, March 17, 2024

Cotton Tartan Saraste Shirt

 I bought this fabric in the Utrecht textile market, when we visited it almost one year ago. It is a thick, checked cotton, in beautiful red, black and white tones. 

I decided to use again the Saraste shirt pattern from Breaking the Pattern book by Named, as I did in this other checked shirt I made. The only change from that project was to make the sleeves longer, as they ended up being in the short side then. 

Everything was going smooth, the fittings were great, until I realized the bust darts were beginning in different places of the checked pattern. At first I thought the problem was the darts, but finally I learnt the sad truth: I had cut the pattern pieces on the folded fabric thinking one of the white lines run over the one in the bottom, but it went 10 cm down, to the next white line. I made this huge mistake when cutting the fabric because I rushed the process, in my rush  to get things done. This is one of my sins as a seamstress, sometimes I rush and speed the process, and these are the consequences: the shirt is totally askew, the plaid goes down unbalanced instead of being horizontal. It is a disaster. 

When I realized my mistake I considered the possibility of throwing it away, but by then it was almost finished, and my partner said it was unnoticeable to the unknowing eye. So I decided to finish it and wear it. It is nice and comfortable to wear, but I will always know it as the askew shirt.

Errors are an opportunity to learn, and I have learnt to cut the patterns on unfolded fabric, matching the checks carefully in this kind of fabric.