Thursday, February 14, 2019

Black Wool Zipper Jacket

I am specially proud of this project because it is both my design and my pattern. 
I needed a warm black wool jacket and when I found this fabric in Amsterdam for only 40 Eur the metre (wool and cashmere) I knew I had hit the jackpot. 
I wanted some cool design, and I found these in Pinterest:

I did not know any pattern like that, so I decided to ask in The Foldline FB forum for ideas. As usual, they helped a lot with patterns and ideas, I was so happy! Amanda Syslvester gave me a very good idea of a pattern, and I used it to hack of one mine.

 Using my jacket pattern, which I drafted using Aldrich's book, I enlarged it 10 cm, extended the central pannel to the princess seam minus 4cm for the zipper, and I also extended the neck, copying Amanda's pattern. 

The construction was slow, becasue I like to sew well. I applied thermofusible interlining to the whole bodice, attached the pieces together, applying the zipper on one lapel and machine stitching the other just next to the opposite princess seam. 

I decided to do some pockets with welts, so I followed Shaeffer's book to do them and they became perfect. 

Then I ensambled the sleeves and attached them to the bodice and finally, I lined the whole jacket with a quality lining. I have always regretted cheap lining fabrics, so I have learnt my lesson now. 

The jacket is lovely... it could be more flattering to my figuere if it were tighter, but I this is a winter garment and I wanted it to be roomy for thick layers under it. 

  
 In the pictures you can see there are three possible ways of wearing the jacket: open, semi-zipped and totally zipped.