I have always loved Levi's jeans, even when I have only found three models (along 4 decades!) that suited my body shape and made me look good. Using all the knowledge I learnt in the online course JEAN-IUS with Kenneth D. King, I copied an old pair that I loved and are crumbling to pieces, literally. This is my third attempt to copy a pair of jeans. Fisrt time, I modified a self-drawn pattern using another pair of Levi's. Last time, I used King's method to copy another pair. None of them are perfect, but they are really close, I wear them a lot, and they are becoming more comfortable with wear.
Finding a good denim, with 2% elastane is difficult, with the perfect thickness, drape and colour. I found this in Ditto fabrics, and decided to use it to copy this old pair of Jeans that are breaking. They are semifitted, and that makes them very comfortable and .
I am now very familiar with the copying method, and I advanced smoothly from step to step.
I love how King makes the back and front pockets, and also the back yoke, so I followed his instructions on those.
For the zipper fly, I followed Closed Core Patterns instructions again, which are spot on. I made a self encased crotch seam though, slanted to the left, and with all that, the fly is beyond perfection.
For the general assembly, I prefer to sew the middle back seam, and self enclose it after finishing both sides of the back yokes. King does it in a different order, but my method allows me to fit them better, since I do not use a toile. Toiles are fine for some projects, but I think you only feel the right fit with the fabric you use, with its give and drape and thickness.
So, I stitch and enclose the inside seam from ankle to ankle, baste the outer seams and try the jeans on to make them exactly fitted. In this case, I had to give 3 mm to my calves, I hate when the jeans are stuck in my calves and they pull when I sit.
Once the fit is perfect, I stitch and self enclose the outer seams, and finish the waist band and belt loops. I follow King's method here, and I make sure I copy the exact waistband length of the original jeans.
The result is absolutely comfortable to wear and very flattering to my figure. I love them. The waistband is too elastic (I cut it across weave following The Closed Case advice) and I have to wear a belt for them to keep in place when I sit. The original jeans' waistband is not elastic at all. Next time, I will make it along the thread, following King's cutting lay out. Ah! Talking about layout, I cut the pieces upside down to prevent the jeans from twisting on my legs, and it totally worked. This is a piece to last forever and to be proud of. I have witnessed how Levi's is using polyester in all their fitted jeans, so I am not buying that anymore. from now on, jeans are on me!
