Sunday, September 3, 2023

Black Sofia Dress


I bought this linen-viscose fabric in the street fabric market in Utrecht, back in May. It was only €5 the metre, and I bought 2 metres with the idea of making a jacket and trouser suit.


Some weeks later, I had the inspirational match: Sew Over It Sofia dress would be a nice in this soft black viscose-linen, and the pattern had some intriguing features, like the cut-out in the back, three flounces, and the bust piece cut on the bias!


After printing the pattern, I traced it in my size, taking the seam allowances off, as I usually do. I tested the pattern on the dress form, and it looked fine, so I went ahead and cut it. This dress presents several options, I chose the longer back bodice with buttons instead of a bow.


I followed the instructions to make the dress, and when I got to the front bodice I realized it only had 0.5 cm seam allowance in the upper edge, so my cut front bodice was 1 cm shorter than the design. I tried to sew it some mm higher, but it is still too low cut, somehow, and that is a pity. 


I hate patterns that include their seam allowances, because it is an extra job for me, but it is worse when one seam in smaller and you only realize it when all the pieces are cut with small seam allowance because I run short on fabric. 


The pattern is lovely, and I might do it again in a lighter fabric in the future. The only critical spot is the part of the upper front bodice, from the shoulder strap to the side. That part is cut on bias, and it stretches easily, I had to insert an elasticated thread to keep it in place. The rest in swell.