Saturday, January 31, 2015

Wrap Linton Tartan Miniskirt

This is a wonderful outcome of the Françoise Dress I made a couple of months ago. I bought this fabric at Linton, and after cutting the dress I had some left, so I decided I had to make a preppy wrap miniskirt, which I've always adored. The fabric just asked for it! I also had some Hong Kong black silk habotai, left from the dress lining, so it was a perfect leftovers project. 

For this skirt I used my long skirt flared skirt pattern, which is perfect and it has had so many different versions and uses. I love it because it has no darts, and just the perfect flare. For the wrap fronts, I cut two three quarters (+4cm) fronts.

I put my muslin pattern pieces on the wool trying to match the tartan at the side seams. I staystiched the three patterns, and zigzagged all the selvages, since this fabric unravels like crazy. 

I machine stitched the two lateral seams and I did the same with the silk for  the lining. After ironing both, I attached the silk tot the wool, and sewed it together all around except for the bottom seam. Then, I turned it over, and topstitched all around it. I ironed it again, both fabrics together, and started to baste the quilting lines on the three pieces. This Linton fabric typically sags, and it has to be machine quilted as a Chanel jacket would.

Finally, I made the bottom seam. First, I basted it. I hand sewed it (this fabric conceals any stitches you can make, it's wonderful!), and finally I hand sewed with a slipstitch the silk at the bottom, covering the seam ending and protecting it from unraveling. Since the silk was quilted to the wool, it was really easy and fast to sew it at the bottom. 

The result is stunning, I really love it. I've always loved preppy tartan wrap miniskirts, and this is not the first one I make, but the fabric and the tricks I've learnt and used, make this my best go at it.

Here I just on my way to work at the school. I am wearing it with a black cotton bodyshaper, a cachemir jacket, dark stockings and my wonderful Timberland boots.

Thursday, January 15, 2015

Flower Power

This is another very simple and quick to do design, but still a wonderful piece of clothing. I got this flowery jersey in a remnant shop we have in our town, where you can buy industry leftovers by weight. It cost me 3 or 4 euros, the fabric.
I used my own skirt pattern, which is proving to be priceless, and very versatile. I simply cut it sorter, and gave 10 cm more of bell shape to each side. I cut it on bias. Like with the previous jersey pieces, I zigzagged the seam allowances, put an elastic band inside the waist, and sew the hem by machine sewing it.
Today I wore it at my school, and it felt just perfect, comfortable, simple, and yet, beautiful.

This was my inspiration. I can't wait for the weather to allow me to wear it with my denim jacket! This is gathered at the waist, but I thought I could do without more volume in my waist ;-)

Thursday, January 8, 2015

Jersey Basics

After the last complicated and long projects, I decided to get back to basics, and sew myself some jersey pieces, two bodyshapers and some leggings. I am quite satisfied with the outcome.
I use the bodyshapers a lot in winter, under pullovers or dresses, and leggins are a basic in my wardrobe. 
Both are my patterns, from Aldrich's book, but I've had to make some adjustments (too much ease).
With this kind of pieces, I use the simple method of pinning the paper patterns to the fabric and cutting around them leaving only 1 cm seam allowance every where. No need to mark the fabric or baste it previously, only hold it in place with pins before...
...I machine stitched all the seams with a very narrow zigzag to allow them to give, since they are stretch jerseys (cotton/lycra). Then, I cut the seam allowances to 0.5cm, and zigzagged them, getting something similar to the overlock finish. I do not have a serger yet, so this is quite a good substitute.

This jersey skirt, also cotton/lycra, is for comfort at home. I simply used the ruboff method of putting my old but perfect skirt over the folded fabric and cutting around it, leaving 1 cm for seam allowance. I also made a pocket in front, put an ellasticated band into the waistband, made a machine-stitched hem, and started to enjoy it in fron of the fireplace!