Sometime last year I decided I needed a wool tartan coat after seeing a Kate Midlleton's replica being sold online. I thought it was so awesome I had to make one for myself. Plus, I "needed" a blue coat.
So, I checked in MacCullock and Wallis (who I knew have great wool tartan) and I felt immediately in love with the Black Watch colors and pattern. It is awesome, and it is very similar to Kate's and Kate's replica. So, I got 3 meters of it together with some blue cupro lining. Those happy times when we could trade with the UK easily and freely...
Now I had to find a pattern for the princess-lined, flared-skirted, double-breasted coat. I found Vogue 8346 and I thought it was a pretty good match... but to make sure I asked The Fold Line and nice Rachel herself pointed to the same direction.
So, I bought the pattern, and I decided to start the project over the winter holidays. I have this tradition of making a big project for my christmas holidays, since we mostly stay at home. We have tried to travel for christmas in the past, and it has always proved sad and inconvenient.
Having some previous experience with Vogue patterns, I decided to go down a size, and I was proved right. So, I traced the pattern, and removed the seam allowance all around all the pieces. I then checked it was the right side by pinning it to my dress form. It seemed perfect, so proceeded to pin it to the fabric, matching all the pattern pieces to the fabric.
I still consider a miracle I had enough fabric after all that strategic positioning of the many pieces. I only had to make a seam into the front facing, which of course is in the reverse and invisible, since I matched the checks.
I made an alteration to the paper pattern, I added the cut-out lapel to the front panel to avoid that seam. I have always made lapels as an extension of the front piece and I prefer it that way.
Following my traditional method, I marked the fabric with tailor tucks, basted it and fitted it. I set the first button higher, to get a more closed neck opening. I had to alter the armscyes at the front, setting them 1.5 cm backwards for them to look better. In another fitting I realized (as my boyfriend pointed out) that the skirt was too flared, and I took 2.5 off every one of the seven seams, so that means 35 cm less flare.
The rest was as indicated, although I did not follow the pattern instructions, but used my own method of construction.
It is an awesome, regal coat. I am 100% happy with it. It is the perfect fabric for this pattern, soft, warm and thin. I really feel like a princess wearing it. It is just a pity I can only wear it to my job at the moment, but hey! at least I can weat it! I have now another masterpiece to last forever and I hope to wear it a lot, since it is comfortable and versatile.
