Sunday, July 3, 2016

Purple Liberty Jumpsuit

I have mixed ideas and doubts about this project since the beginning. I got inspired by a pattern in Burda magazine. It was a jumpsuit made in a woven patterned fabric, and I immediately saw it as an excuse for Liberty. 
I bought it the in the shop during my last visit to London (I hope the commercial relations with Britain go on  with no extra taxes after the Brexit, shipping costs are expensive enough!). I needed 2.5 m according to the magazine, and I was lucky the sales girl was so generous with the fabric as to cut 15 extra cm, which became totally necessary.
I decided to make a toile first, to check the fit of the thing, but specially to decide if it was a sensible idea, a cotton short-sleeved, troussered jumpsuit. In the toile I saw fitting was perfect (Burda is amazing that way, and it does NOT include seam allowances, it is great) and it was a becoming outfit to my figure, although somewhat weird... I did not know if it was good-weird or bad-weird. I still do not know, sincerely.
Well, I ripped the muslin pieces off, and I used them as pattern pieces without a single modification on them.
I constructed the trousers first: pleats, zipper, pockets, inner seams (self encaged), outer seams (self encaged).
Then I constructed the bodice, also self-encaging all the seam allowances, the objective being a neat finish of the garment outside and inside. One curious thing about this blouse is that breast dart is transferred to the waist by way of gatherings. It has a band stand collar.
Finally I united the top and bottom pieces sandwiching them between the waist piece. I had a really nasty surprise then, and since I was in a tight schedule (one of my mad sewist crazy deadlines, I had to wear it for the final course celebration) I could only repair it with a sloppy remedy. I could not anticipate it because, although I tried I could not visualize the frontal closing where zipper and button strip would meet. I tried, but my visual-spacial intelligence failed to see ahead, as usual. So I only realized it when it was too late: we put right over left in tops, and the other way round in trouser zippers!! The solution was to completely undo the zipper and do it right over left to match the button and buttonhole strips, but it was late at night the previous day to my big day. No time. Sloppy solution. Happily, I did a very nice inconspicuous work and nobody notices it when I am wearing it: I cut the bottom of the buttonhole strip to pass it over the button strip and secure it with a very small zigzag and a tiny metal clip.
I was very comfortable wearing it, but after wearing it a whole very hot tiring morning with kids in my lap, bus ride in pure heat included, the thing was pretty wrinkled, I must say. Also, I have serious doubts about the waist (me not having any of that), so I decided to add a belt to it. But then the fact that it is one whole piece is not appreciated any more. So, does it have any sense at all?

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