Pink Linen Gingham Blouse

 This pattern is from BurdaStyle magazine, but I had to perform a major modification to solve the issue of being too wide on the upper part of the bodice edge, front and back. 

I solved the issue in the front by simply making the elastic band shorter, but there was too much fabric in the back bodice. I had to cut it in the middle, taking 8 cm off (aprox) and rearranging the upper and bottom tape channels. The result was then perfect, but it is not a pattern up to Burda reputation. 

The fabric is from Merchant and Mills, a lovely linen gingham in hot pick and ivory. I love it. 

Purple Silk-Viscose Pants

A very simple pattern for this wonderful fabric. I found it in Utrecht Fabric market, where we travelled last May. 

This was one of the few fabrics I bought, and it is stunning. The base of the fabric is silk and the ply is viscose. 

The drape is exquisite and the flashes of silvery purple are amazing. Kids at my school are mesmerized by it, as it shines when I move. 

I choose a very old pattern of mine, simple straight wide pants, since there was a scarce metre of fabric. To avoid bulk and fabric, I sew some elastic jersey as a facing at the waist, inserting a rubber band inside the channel that it made.

The only drawback is that this fabric is so delicate, a water drop can leave an eternal mark, wrinkles stay forever, and it cannot be washed or even hanged doubled. But well, it is also forgiving to irregularities, and it only cost me €15, so it was totally worth it. 

Black Sofia Dress

I bought this linen-viscose fabric in the street fabric market in Utrecht, back in May. It was only €5 the metre, and I bought 2 metres with the idea of making a jacket and trouser suit.

Some weeks later, I had the inspirational match: Sew Over It Sofia dress would be a nice in this soft black viscose-linen, and the pattern had some intriguing features, like the cut-out in the back, three flounces, and the bust piece cut on the bias!

After printing the pattern, I traced it in my size, taking the seam allowances off, as I usually do. I tested the pattern on the dress form, and it looked fine, so I went ahead and cut it. This dress presents several options, I chose the longer back bodice with buttons instead of a bow.

I followed the instructions to make the dress, and when I got to the front bodice I realized it only had 0.5 cm seam allowance in the upper edge, so my cut front bodice was 1 cm shorter than the design. I tried to sew it some mm higher, but it is still too low cut, somehow, and that is a pity. 

I hate patterns that include their seam allowances, because it is an extra job for me, but it is worse when one seam in smaller and you only realize it when all the pieces are cut with small seam allowance because I run short on fabric. 

The pattern is lovely, and I might do it again in a lighter fabric in the future. The only critical spot is the part of the upper front bodice, from the shoulder strap to the side. That part is cut on bias, and it stretches easily, I had to insert an elasticated thread to keep it in place. The rest in swell. 

Crotchet Top

Last year, I decided to try my hand at crocheting to know if I liked as much as I like knitting. This pattern is from Katia, it includes some lace and it uses a cotton I love, so it was a good choice, I thought. 

I followed the pattern, first making the back and front pieces and finishing with the lace in the back, the straps, and the scythe's closing. 

I finished in mid winter, so it has been in my wardrobe unworn for half a year, but I was finally able to wear it this summer. When I tried it on I realized my nipples could be seen, and I had to sew and underlying piece at the breasts zone. It is a knit, flesh coloured, invisible underlying, and it does the trick perfectly, as you can see in the pictures: it maintains the sheer vibe of the top, buy my nipples are no longer visible.

Ravelry entry

Emilio Dress

 I bought this gorgeous fabric in Firenze, summer 2022. The seller that helped me took this fabric from out of the counter, as if it were illegal. I marvelled at the stunning silk, and then he pointed at the signature: Emilio (Tucci). Shirts made of this were being sold at 1000 € in fashion district (another instance of how good at marketing Italians are). It cost me 60 €, and it was aprox. 1,5 m. 

It sat in my stash almost a year, until I found the perfect design: a bias cut long dress, inspired in the sateen long dresses of the cinema divas of the classic Hollywood. 

I looked in my magazines for a blouse cut on the bias with that high ruffled neck cut I fancied, and then I lengthened the sides in some evassée shape. 

I cut the dress on the floor, very carefully not to distress the seams, to prevent them from stretching. I was very careful about that along all the process, specially when I stitched it in the machine or when I ironed the seams. In previous attempts to sew bias silk I ruined it in the machine and with the iron, so I was very careful and it did not happen this time, I managed to keep the bias silk in shape.

The result is spectacular. It certainly raised some praise. I am glad that the design and the execution were up to the wonderful fabric. I've worn it twice, at my dear students' graduation party and at my in-laws 50th wedding anniversary celebration.

Wide Pants in Green Linen and Black Cobra Corsage Viscose with Black Interlock Wrap Top

Wide pants, adjusted at middle rise waist, with pockets and long to the floor, are a basic in a wardrobe. 

I have been quite a long time trying out several patterns and this one is possibly my favourite. 

It is from BurdaStyle magazine, size 42 with some modifications: I took 1 cm off all sides, exterior and interior, and 2 cm (front and back) off the sides of the waist piece. In addition to that, I will have to add some adjustable strips at the centre back to completely adjust them, because they give some with the wear, and I like a good grip at my waist, but not too much. Besides, waist varies, and some adjustable strips (as in the Mitchell pants) are a nice solution to avoid a belt. I hate belts because you never find the perfect adjustment. 

I applied some fusible interfacing to the pockets' cuts and also to the waist pieces. 

In the green linen version, I installed the zip at the centre back to avoid a bulge at the side, but I did not like the look of it or its accessibility. 

In the viscose version, I installed an invisible zip on the left side, and it is perfectly invisible there, so that is the best option. 

The whole pants have self-encased seams. 

Regarding the fabric, I bought the green linen in Julian Lopez store, in the centre of Zaragoza.  I bought the Lady McElroy Black Cobra Corsage in the online shop The Sewjo. Both are excellent. The linen is more structured and thick, in a lovely tone of green. The viscose is incredibly soft and light, it wrinkles a little when you seat (specially the waist pieces), but it straightens out when you stand up, it is awesome. 

These wide pants are nice to wear with some tight top, but then my tummy gets out, and I do not quite like it. So I decided to make this top with some thick interlock I still had in my stash from Ecological Textiles, which is wonderful. I also used a pattern from BurdaStyle, modifying the front bottom of both pieces, and making it rounder, because it stood out too much. It is very wearable and comfortable, a very good compromise between tight/wide, long/short. 

Pink Moschino Cotton Outfit

 This fabric has quite a story to me. When I first saw it in The Sewjo website I thought it would be awesome for an ensemble a la Chanel. It was a Moschino cotton and elastane at a very good price. 

When it arrived, and I saw it live I was completely disappointed, it feels too elasticated and thick... Then I had an envent and I decided it was worth a try. 

I found this pattern in an old Patrones magazine, and afterwards I remembered this was my second rendition of it,

the first one being for my sister in law, back in 2012. I do not like the patterns in the magazine, but Burda did not have anything similar, so I went for it, both the dress and the jacket. 

I had to modify the dress, but only slightly, taking some ease off over and under the bust, and then giving some A shape to the skirt. 

At the second fitting I realized it was awesome, the fabric looked amazing and the pattern was like a glove to my body, I could not be happier. It was very nice to sew and it was gorgeous till the end, no surprises. 

The jacket is a different matter, pieces did not properly match, shoulder seams were too long, sleeves did not make any sense... tried to adjust it as best as I could, and it ended up just good enough. 

 It went to confirm my bad opinion on Patrones magazine patters, they are a disaster, specially sleeves. If I had had any fabric or time, I would have redone it completely in a Burda pattern. 

But all in all, it is a stunning outfit, and I felt like a princess wearing it.