Tuesday, May 1, 2012

Pink Polar Fleeze Jacket: a Step By Step Process

Since I've been reading blogs by sewing enthusiasts from all over the world, I have realized the process I follow to make a piece is not the same everywhere. In this post, I will explain what is this process step by step.
 I collect pattern magazines, sold in kiosks. Nowadays in Catalonia, we can buy Burda, from Germany, and Patrones, Spanish. They publish a new number every other month, but I try to have a look first before deciding if it is worth it, since most of the times (specially in last years, or maybe because I already have a big collection of patterns) it is not worth it -it is not a matter of price, they are only around 4 euros, but the space in my shelves!
Once I've chosen a design from the magazine, I decide what size is going to fit me, having into account the magazine style. Burda, for example makes its patterns much bigger than Patrones. Both magazines have a chart with measures. One has also to consider the kind of piece you are working with, and the fabric used before deciding a size. And often, I have to make it smaller or bigger, as in the folloing example.
Once the item and the size are chosen, I proceed to calc the pattern from the big sheets of paper where all the patterns are drawn. Knowing the colour and number dessigning your piece, I follow with a pencill over the lines, reproducing it in pattern paper.
When I have copied all the pieces, I cut them off and proceed to place them on the material, respecting the grain direction, and all the directions the magazine gives us. Once all the pieces are placed and hold with headpins, I proceed to cut the fabric, leaving good seam allowances, for possible variations.

The following step is markig the pattern into the material. I usually do it with taylor tucks, a sittch done with basting cotton thread, similar to basting, but with big loops of thread. After marking every sign, mark, or line, I take the paper off and proceed to separate the two pieces of cloth, cutting the thread between them, which stays attached to both of them.
Now, all the pieces ara thus marked before assembling them. It's time to baste the basic pieces together to the first fitting. In this particular case, the first fitting proves the jacket needed major adjustments. I had to add a seam at the center back, because it was toooo wide. I also entered it at the sides seams, and gave some shape towards the waist. I also made the sleeves narrower that they were in the original pattern. In the second fitting I regained some hope. I regret now not having photographed the fustration-happy-ending process, but of course at the time I just thought in the high possibilities of total failure. Bunt, alas... no!
I decided to apply fusible backing to the neck and arount the pockets, which I also changed form the original. They were to be sawn on top, and I made some inside pockets instead.
The result is great, I think. So, happy ending. It is also very confy, nice to the touch, lightweight and very warm.

1 comment:

  1. Making something for the first time can be soooo annoying. Especially when it looks so perfect on the model! However hours seems to be fitting perfectly, excellent! I can't believe you do all that basting, I could never be bothered :)


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