Thursday, December 25, 2014

Reversible V1419 Ralph Rucci for Vogue Coat

This has been a long laborious project with a happy ending.



















The story started with the Sewalong proposed by Meg, at the McCall Pattern Company and Lladybird in September.











The pattern was beautiful and appropriate for my double-sided wool I had bough in Lleida last winter, because it has raglan sleeves and the seams are easy enough for the double sided technique, explained to me by the seamstress who sold me the fabric, Herminia.
So, I bought the pattern. I don't like the "seams included" method (and sewing with pins only), at all, so first I had to draw the real pattern subtracting 1.5 cm all around. Fortunately, the pattern included wonderful indications at critical spots, so I had no problems doing this. I transferred the pattern to the muslin, which proved too big for me in the first fitting trial.



 I thank the sewalongers and hosts who helped me see that the problem was simply one size too big. They were totally right, but I could no see it on my own (I am not too good at fitting solutions).



 So, the second muslin proved to be just perfect for me. I proceeded to put the pattern pieces over the wool, pinning them down and cutting the wool.


Next step is tailor tucks all around the coat pieces. That was easy and fast compared to the arduous work of splitting the two sides open around all the pieces, for 2 cm. The two sides are tied together by small threads that one has to cut little by little. 

It took me ages! I had to be careful not to remove the loose stitches, but no problem there.
Then, I started with the basting, which I consider indispensable before machine sewing anything. 

In this picture we can only see the staystitching I did (previously to basting the pieces together), following the instructions in the pattern. With this double-sided wool, one cannot use any foundation, so any holding the structure technique was welcome. 



I decided to sew the clear grey side. Then, remove the basting thread and iron the seams open, until I assembled the whole thing.





After that, I cut the seam allowance of the darker wool side to 1 cm and basted all before I started to hand sew it close with and invisible stitch.



I enjoyed this part so much, because the fabric was wonderful to the touch, and I could dominate it so sweetly, closing all the seams and making them disappear. 
I also hand sewed the coat and sleeves hem, removing the basting thread as I was sewing.



I was thinking over the buttons and buttonholes possibilities for weeks. I made several trials, and finally decided to use metallic claps, which are invisible outside the coat. In the clear grey side, I sewed some flat metallic buttons and left the dark side with nothing visible at the centre. It works perfectly right for me. the buttonholes proposed in the sewalong are gorgeous, but they only have one good side, so they were not an option for me.
I am totally happy with my two new coats in one. The fabric is really pricey and I've worked many hours, but the result is stunning, comfortable and outstanding.
What do you think??

I thank Lauren and Meg for their help and guidance, and my colleague sewers for their opinions, advice and inspiration. It was a wonderful experience, and it is a wonderful pattern.



Watch the rest of the sewalongers coats, they are gorgeous!

7 comments:

  1. That is so elegant and beautiful! Thank you for posting.

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  2. Thank you for commenting, Taivahalla!

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  3. It turned out so wonderful!! Love the fact that it's reversible, and the wool looks so cozy. You did a fabulous job and the fit looks spot on! :D

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  4. Thank you, Lauren!! You are behind it and you know it ;-)

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  5. It's double sided! Amazing! Did you oMIT the welt pockets? I'm considering skipping them as well.

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  6. Hello, Crystal! I am so glad you came by... yes, I skipped the pokets because I did not need that bulge (since I had to sew two and two, of course... )But I tell you, I miss them when it is cold out there. The sleeves are beautiful but very open, cold goes up my arms. So I would not skip them if I could...

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  7. holy cow girl!!!! I'm in utter and absolute awe of your work! what a fabulous coat!

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