Sunday, April 17, 2016

Linton Wool Couture Jacket

This is my second cardigan couture jacket, Chanel style. 
I just wanted a black one to go with everything. And it does, I would wear it everyday.
I used the same pattern and method of construction than for my first one, which was a total success. Let's review some of the steps
Patterns do no include seam allowances and are transferred to the fabric (folded, so we get two of each) by tailor tucks.
We interline the front panels and sleeve bottoms (I use fusible interlining to make my life easier).The lining pieces are quilted into the fabric pieces of bodice and sleeves with the machine.
We assemble the pieces together basting them first. 
Then we machine stitch all the seams, we remove the basting thread and press seams open. I applied some silk strips in the shoulder seams to hold their shape.
Sleeves are sewn to the bodice by hand, using a backstitch, after gathering the cap tops with basting thread, ironing them round and basting them to the bodice.
 Bottom hems are handsewn to the jacket.
The lining pieces are handsewn together, I use a ruler under the sewing to avoid catching the fabric underneath. 

I even copied the trimmings, this time using some velvet ribbon in the middle of a wool unpicked strip. This is made by cutting a strip of the same fabric as the jacket and removing the woven threads all along it, leaving only a solid cm at the middle, on top of which we sew the ribbon. It is then applied to the jacket by hand.
I applied a plastic silvel zipper at the front and two at the sleeves bottoms, surrounded also by trimming.
This time I used real wool from Linton (1.5m), which I selected from some swatches they sent me. It is absolutely perfect, soft, heavy, with great structure. I used black silk for the lining.
Pockets are lined also in silk, and handsewn to the front of the jacket. They are so practical for keys, card, some change... to rush out and survive, as Coco herlself imagined.
And that is a perfect Chanel jacket!

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