Light Blue Wide-Legged Jeans

 

Jeans are the ultimate project for a seamstress, I think. It is difficult to get the perfect, authentic, comfortable pair, and honestly, I believe these are perfect. 

First, the denim fabric we can buy does not have the used, eroded feel of comercial jeans. The only shades that look fine are dark indigo or vey light blue like this. Then, the thickness, the hang, the softness to be perfect, specially if we are buying denim online, is almost impossible. Well, I found this fabric in MeterMeter by the name of Eta Washed Denim in september 2025, and although I was quite sceptic, it turned out just perfect in all those senses. 

For the pattern, I wanted my jeans to be high waisted and wide legged to copy the youngsters' preferences these days. So I decided to use the Ginger Jeans pattern and make some major hacks to it.

First, I drew a perpendicular line under the pockets, cut it and moved it 5 cm upwards, in both the front and back pattern pieces. 

Second, I drew a second perfendicular line from both crotch outward points and from there, I drew three perpendicular lines to the bottom of the jeans. Cutting these lines open, I pivoted the pieces so that I got the desired wideness. 

I followed the instructions for the Ginger Jeans for the pockets, the fly and the waist band. I finished all the seams self enclosing them and topstitching with golden Jeans Gutermann thread. 

And voilà, they are perfect!

Cigarrette Jeans

 

I bought this indigo middle weight elasticated denim in Denim.lab. It was in my stash for three years before I made up my mind as to what to do with it. The fabric was only 70 cm wide, and I'd bought 2 meters, so the material was tight. 

I decided to make some cigarette short pants using the Ginger Middle rise Jeans pattern, by Closet Core Patterns, which is spot on for this kind of middle weight elasticated denim. 

No modifications made, except cutting the bottom short, but the fabric was so tight that I had to make narrow pockets, specially one of them. When I realized it was no good, I modified the second one using the lining fabric, and that one is better. Anyway, it is only wrong if I use it. Pity, but... they are very becoming and comfortable. 

Animal Print Twill Ginger Pants

After making my 50's dress  with this gorgeous fabric, I had 1 m left. Then, I remembered the idea I had had long in my mind, of making a pair of camouflage pants. Finding the right fabric has been impossible til now, so I thought this fabric would be perfect to make a pair of tight-fitting Ginger Jeans.

As any other pattern of jeans, legs must be adjusted to get the right amount of ease, depending on the look we have in mind, the thickness of the fabric and most of all, the elasticity of it. Since this fabric is quite thin and it has a very good give and recovery, I thought I could make them in a tight version. 

In the 1st fitting I realized they were too tight, unwearable. One of these projects that goes to the waste unfinished, a shame. But then I gave it some thought and I decided to make serged seams instead of self-encasing them. Most commercial jeans have serged, and then topstiched seams. This meant I could give 1 cm off every seam. 

That proves to be the perfect solution. It is amazing that only 1 cm is such a game changer! They feel like a glove, they are comfortable to wear and the perfect tightness in both hips and legs. 

I have worn them to a metal festival all day, and they stayed in perfect shape after sitting, dancing and the lots. 

Last time I made a pair of Ginger jeans, I remember I had to take them in all around, so I must have cut 1 cm off around all pieces, although I cannot remember doing that. In this fabric, which is not that elastic, this was. I am making another pair nowadays, adding 1 cm in all exterior seams, we will see if that is right, or I might have to print and trace the pattern in my right size again. 

Blue Stripped Cotton Pants

Now that I have found THE PERFECT TROUSER PATTERN, I will not tire of repeating it in different widths, lengths, fabrics... It is unbelievable that of all the trouser patterns I have tried along more than 30 years of sewing, I have only now found one that feels right. Amazing. 

I followed the instructions for making the zip of the same book where the pattern comes from, which are thought for woven fabrics, but not jeans, and it is pretty good. 

I bought the fabric in Ray and Stitch. I was disappointed when it arrives, because I thought it would be thicker than it actually was, but anyway, I decided to make some pants. 

The result is very good, although I have yet to add some belt loops, because they've become baggy with wear, specially in the waist. 

Now I think that I possibly distorted them with too much ironing (dragging the iron along and across the fabric instead of just taping it), because I have recently made the exact same pattern in cotton, being really careful to press the iron without dragging it, and these pants are far more tight. My doubt now is, if I wash this blue cotton pants, and carefully press them, would they recover their shape? We will see... Anyway, the bagginess is not much, probably nobody notices it but me. 

Black Denim Pants and Jacket

 I bought this fabric in Ray Stitch, online, last April. This same year, in December, I decided to make some wide jeans and a short jacket.

For the jeans, I used this Burda pattern that I have made twice previously. It's a little too wide in the waist, but that is easy to solve. It is tricky to find the perfect ease for jeans, since the fabric gives, and some more than others. 

The pattern for the jacket is mine, and that makes me proud, I admit. I used Aldrich's book to create it; it's the "Fitted Casual Jacket" in p. 128, but cut at the waist. And it fits like a glove. 

Safari Midi Skirt and Black Ribbed Top

After making two pants and reserving fabric for a third pair, I still got some cotton left to make a midi skirt. A priori, it seemed like a perfect match.

I looked through all my magazines for the perfect pattern, and finally I found one in an old Patrones. I hacked the pockets, changing them from jeans to smart pants pockets. 

The fabric was sparse, and I had to use another cotton shirting to make even the pockets facing. There was enough to make the side cargo-style pocket, with some snaps included.

It came up as awesome as I had envisioned, and the fabric was indeed the perfect match for this pattern, I love this skirt, and I am wearing it often. 

The only thing that I do not like is the back yoke. I tried to improve it, but I did not manage to make it gracious. 

Also from some remnant left from another project, I draped this top directly over my dress form, cutting the fabric on it, and sewing it directly after. I added some strips to finish the neck line in front and back, and also for under the arms, where it continued to create the straps. It is absolutely perfect, comfortable and becoming, my size spot on.

My top goes perfect with the safari skirt, and the Guess stilettos I bought in Prague, second hand. 

Blue Wool Trench Coat

 Well, I'm proud of this one, specially because it is my own pattern, and it has turned out sooo nice!

I've been needing a short blue coat for some time, specially to go with jeans or blue trousers. This coat worn by Christina Heindrichs was an inspiration. I found this wool for €15 in the fabric market in Uttrecht, in May last year. 

I searched and searched for a pattern and curiously, I could not find anything similar anywhere. Finally, I decided to draw it myself following Aldrich's directions for the "Fitted Coat (slightly high waist)", which used the tailored jacket block from the same book. 

It was a total success, as it usually is with Aldrich. I changed the neck and rever, though, making them in two pieces: the classic reefer collar for double- breasted coats and a lapel that went from under the collar to a point slightly beyond the end of the button stand. It sounds complicated, but once I traced the jacket block, I just went on drawing all the particularities, like pockets, flare, back belt, etc.

The first fitting was just perfect, it feels like a glove, when you draw a pattern for your own peculiar measures. The only wrong part was the top of the armscye, 2,5 cm too wide, and I could see it right in the drawing of the pattern. Once I removed this, defining it from the middle of the armscye to the top, front and back, the sleeve hanged with the utmost perfection, it was uncanny.

To solve some construction doubts, I went online and I discovered that Claire Shaeffer, expert in haute couture methods, had just published a new book on tailored jackets. I bought the digital version and read it all as I worked on the jacket. It is a wonderful book, instructions and drawings are very well done. I did not follow the complete haute-couture method for this jacket. 

For example, I machine stitched the lining and I sewed it later by hand around the jacket, instead of sewing it to every piece separately. I used fusible interlining instead of horsehair canvas, but I followed other directions precisely, like sewing buttonholes or making the back vent.

Once it is finished and after I've worn it a couple of times, I have decided to topstitch it around the border, specially around the collar and lapel, to keep the layers of wool pressed together. I've seen this kind of thick woo coats with topstitched lapels and collars everywhere, and although I was afraid it was going to spoil the simple and smooth look it had, it has resulted an improvement.

Pink Sweater and Pirate Jeans

 

I found this pink sweater fabric in Guthrie and Ghani, a fabric shop in Birmingham that we visited last summer. It has a small white thread that gives it a lighter shade, beautiful. The denim, I bought online in Denimlab. It has 2% elastic in it. 

I used my old Coco pattern for the jumper bodice, and then I hacked the sleeves using Aldrich's book method. 

For the pants I used an old pattern from BurdaStyle that I love, my Concert Twill Pants, although I had to take 1 cm off the external seams (x4!). Still, they kept falling down when I wore them, so I had to undo some self encased seams and take some 2cm more at the waist piece and the top of the sides seams. 

This is a wonderful pattern, the perfect crotch length, tight at the hips and straight wide from the hip down, I really love this pattern and I will use it again.