Thursday, October 1, 2015

Gingham Dress / El vestit de quadrets vichy


 Gingham is a medium-weight balanced plain-woven fabric made from dyed cotton or cotton-blend yarn.[1] It is made of carded, medium or fine yarns, where the colouring is on the warp yarns and always along the grain (weft). Gingham has no right or wrong side with respect to colour.
Wikipedia


The inspiration was Emy Rossum /La inspiració fou l'Emmy Rossum

I was looking for a good black and white gingham and I found this at  Stone Fabrics. It was not cheap, but it was 100% cotton, I cannot stand plastic fibers.


For the pattern, I used Burda Magazine. It had a similar design, and I only had to make three small alterations:
  • I added some space around my bust, just where the lateral front pannel and the central piece meet.
  • I closed the neckline 4 cm all around, since the design was really low cut.
  • I added a neck similar to Emmy's dress, which I designed with the help of Alcrich's book, and it became perfect.
  • The fourth alteration was a failure, but it is worht it recording it for future projects. I added some fabric at the waist, thinking I would need it, but then the dres is too roomy in that area. Nothing a belt can't solve, but not necessary in future projects.

The pattern includes pockets, wich are a very practical and nice touch.


I made self enclosed seams all over the dress, and for the neck line and amrsythes I used facings that I zigzagged and secured to the dress with a blind-stitch.



I made the buttonholes with the machine, and it broke there. The cost of the reparing has helped me decide I need a new machine!
The result is very nice and confortable, it is a wonderful fabric. 


El cotó de quadrets vichy es una roba típicament de cotó, tot i que ara a les botigues de roba en trobem de polièster o barrejat.
Vaig comprar aquesta roba a Anglaterra per internet,  perquè per aquí, com sovint em passa, no era de cotó 100%. Tinc la sensació que a Catalunya no donem importància a la composició dels teixits, un fet cabdal per mi.
Vaig utilitzar el patró d'un vestit de la revista Burda, al qual vaig fer algunes modificacions:
  • Vaig afegir roba al voltant del pit, un parell de cm a cada costat, entre el costadet i la peça central. La modificació va resultar perfecta.
  • Vaig fer l'escot molt menys pronunciat, ja que a la revista era un vestit molt escotat. Hi vaig afegir 4 cm tot al voltant.
  • Vaig dissenyar i afegir un coll similar al que porta l'Emmy. El patró el vaig dibuixar jo mateixa seguint les instruccions al llibre de Aldrich.
  • La quarta modificació va ser una errada. Vagi eixamplar la cintura del cosses i la faldilla uns 8 cm en total (4 a cada costat), i va resulta massa ample. Com que va amb cinturó no hi ha cap problema, però la propera vegada he de deixar el patró tal i com està en aquesta zona.

El patró inclou butxaques, que resulten pràctiques i molt boniques.
Vaig decidir entornar totes les costures i polir-les amb repunts. A l'escolt i les sises vaig utilitzar vistes, que vaig sobrefilar a màquina, i les vaig cosir al vestit amb un punt invisible.
Vaig fer els traus a màquina. Fent els traus precisament, se'm va trencar la meva vella Alfa, i em sembla que he decidit comprar-me'n una de nova!

El resultat és força bo, el porto molt de gust.


8 comments:

  1. Lovely dress, looks very chic. Arr, your poor machine - hope you get a nice new machine soon!

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    Replies
    1. Thank you for your comment! My broken machine is the perfect excuse to get the machine of my dreams, hehehe!!! I just met her today...

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  2. It's beautiful, very cool and classic!

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  3. ¡Qué bonito! Y te sienta estupendamente. Felicidades.

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  4. This is a beautiful dress and very professionally finished.

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  5. Better than your inspiration piece. You rock that dress!

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