Saturday, June 30, 2018

Organic Sweatshirt Jacket For Men + Zip Pocket Tutorial

 This is a jacket for my love.
I used a BurdaStyle pattern, which again was perfect, I did not have to alter a thing. Again, Burda delivers. Yes, the instructions of the magazine are so schematic, one has to be an expert sewist to be able to follow... but the accuracy of the pattern and the good fitting one usually gets are the best.
I bought the fabric online in Ecological Textiles. Wonderful fabric to work with and even better to wear. Very warm and comfy, but also breathable, perfect for a sporty jacket with zips and all. In fact, I decided to make it after I wore my own a couple of times. This was the masculine version in the same magazine. So, it is a very similar pattern, i the same fabric.
The most interesting feature during construction was the front and back facing, which I made following the instructions. And also the pockets, which I made my way:

I cut the two pieces of the pocket bag together, and 5 cm longer for the pocket facing included.

I marked the placing of the pocket in both sides and applied some fusible interlining.
I placed the pocket bag on top of the the jacket front (right sides together) and fixed it with pins.

I stitched a rectangle 1 cm wide and 15 cm long, with small stitches at the corners.

Then, we proceed to cut the pocket with a long straight line and four small diagonal ones at corners.
We turn the bag toward the inside of the jacket, baste the opening and press.


Put the zip underneath, secure with pins and machine stitch it with the zip foot, all around.

In the inside, fold the two halves of the pocket together and zigzag it all around with the walking foot on.

Finish sewing by hand the part above the zip, catching it too.
Secure it to the jacket facing if you like, or leave it flapping around.
Done.


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